View Full Version : The new (to me) bike

08-11-2009, 07:12 PM
Figured it looks pretty good in the back of the truck as well tho so just get a pic of it when I brought it back to the house.
Bought down in Portland. High miles but well maintained and has had a few upgrades done.

This was some of what I was told:
Leo Vince Titanium full exhaust system
FBF CPU chip
FBF big bore kit (not confirmed)
Vented dry clutch cover
FBF air filter
Carbon fiber air box
HID lights
fender eliminator
Pirelli tires front and rear (less than 300 miles on them)
recent chain set
LED license plate light
recent tune up including new timing belts


08-11-2009, 07:29 PM
I want the VW!

08-11-2009, 07:41 PM
That VW is sweet!!! :happy44:

and the bike is really cool too..... Congrats!

08-11-2009, 08:15 PM
Very nice VW!

Rich Quarre
08-11-2009, 08:28 PM
Dude, that picture needs to be in some calender. That is a sweet truck!
Congrats on the new bike, also.

08-11-2009, 08:57 PM
Congrats on the bike but I am with everybody else. The Dropgate is sick!

08-11-2009, 09:33 PM
Those could be early CRG mirrors on the VW?

08-11-2009, 09:34 PM
just like everyone else, great bike, SICK dub.

08-11-2009, 11:27 PM
Congrats on your new bike. Hopefully we'll see you at some the Thursday Night gatherings and on some rides. :)

08-12-2009, 01:00 AM
Thank you for the kind words. She is a great rig. I don't get the opp for calendars or magazines tho, seems since it is not a full bus, fully restored, and a trailer queen; it means I am just another vehicle on the road.

Truck gets driven a lot tho. I was going to take her to Canadia for the Great Canadian but lost my camping spot so will probably just hit the get together at Southcenter mall Saturday..or so I am hearing that there is one there.

As for the get togethers, be happy to show up, it will most likely be just before I have to go to work anyway, ha ha. (graveyard shift)

09-06-2009, 12:13 AM
So, a little update, and some issues and some highlights.

So this first shot is what the clutch cover looked like when I got the bike.

This one shows what I was attempting to succeed in tonight. I bought the Rizoma 6 spoke pressure plate with the black buttons. The cover is still the same black one but I did the pie cuts to show off the pressure plate more. Took the cover to work and had it shot peened and blasted, then got the cover clear coated in a 10% gloss (it's what we had and I didn't want gloss)


Well the problem I ran into was when I took off the pressure plate off and saw this on the clutch rod:


Then after ordering that from DucSea, I started delving deeper. I recalled that after riding the bike yesterday and got to a stop light, went to take off in 1st (of course) and it acted like it was in neutral..ended up taking off in 2nd..after that it worked fine in 1st but the clutch didn't feel too good. So I checked the plates and the basket and saw this:


Ya. So I found a used basket on fleabay but have to get some new plates..just not sure what I can get them for or which to get at present. Good thing it is not going to be good weather for a period of time (not usually good but in this case..) so I can get some of this stuff fixed and adjusted.

I did have a question tho. Does the hollow bolt that the clutch rod goes through have a bushing/bearing within it to hold the rod in place or was this just all misaligned? I couldn't find it on the parts diagragm.


PS It does however show possibly some of what the PO had not done..or the PO's before that. Either way, I am learning more and more of this one, and feeling better that I am making it safer and more dependable at the same time.

Red Label Moto
09-06-2009, 09:26 AM
Jax sorry to be a naysayer but those clutch components are not from a bike that could be described as "well maintained". I've never seen the clutch pushrod with wear like that but prolly the local dealers have and will chime in here. That hollow bolt does not have a bearing or bushing that I am aware of. I'm not sure how you can misalign that rod but I suppose anything is possible. Hopefully the used basket you bought is better than the one you have now. Are you running that hub as seen in the pictures above?

Why does your signature say " '97 748S " ? The first model year for the 748S is 2000.

09-06-2009, 10:18 AM
Looks like a golden opportunity to justify buying a slipper clutch. :happy44:


Not a lot of shop experience here, but your clutch plates and basket is one of the worst worn I've seen. The push rod could be indicative of pressure plate mis-alignment or bushing/bearing failure if there is one.

09-06-2009, 10:34 AM
I love the 748s model. That's a nice bike you have. Hope you enjoy it as much as you enjoy the VW, which by the way is also a :thumbup: in my book.

09-06-2009, 08:09 PM
I was told the bike was an S model and even WA state dmv shows it as an S model..plus the Ducati owners manual shows that the only models that came with the head angle eccentric were 748S and 996 bikes and I have this on mine. I'll get the VIN for you and you can determine if you like..plus it would help me out immensely as well. :)
Also this sticker shows a possible explanation as well:


Well ok the VIN might not help, but.. ZDM1SB3R7VB005541

I am finding lots of stuff on this bike that were not maintained well. The HID that WAS on the bike was not an H3, it is now. The front wheel weights were duct taped on, the rears were in the wrong spot..both fixed now. Chain was extremely loose, fixed. I'm starting to dig a bit deeper into it to see what else I can find as well. I'm sort of afraid of what I might find when I go to do the next 12k service..in 1500 miles, I might just do it a little sooner, like this winter.

This is the basket I bought off fleabay:


The edges on there look way way better. And it comes with the nut/bolt so that should help too, mine looked pretty galled inside as well, from the clutch rod no doubt.

Might have to get the center of the clutch hub too, now that I look at it some more. It has some waving in it but it seems to look ok until I could afford something else..Sieg's idea possibly but a bit more money than I can afford at present.

But I think a start is the clutch rod, swapping out the basket when it shows up, and looks like my door prize from the DucSea anni ($100 gift card :happy44: ) will be getting used so I can afford the clutch discs, heh. Then just a front stand and a floor pan to put it in the house for the winter.

I lost my track of thought but I will keep informed as I go..and now I have more wall of shame souviners (sp?) to put on the shelf.

09-06-2009, 09:09 PM
One of the ST2s I used to own had a basket/plates similar to ours. 12k miles.
But I knew it before I bought it, just by listening.
I paid an appropriate price since it needed a full clutch and 12k service. Actually I got a killer price on it!
I wonder where the bike is now?

BTW, I generally duct tape the wheel weights on along with the 'stick em' that them come with. Just in case.

09-06-2009, 10:15 PM
My 998's basket was like that around 10,000 miles. Had to replace ALL the parts. $$$$ I did end up with a pretty sweet extra hub. I might even still have it. I wouldn't re-use the one that's on there right now, and you have to pull it to replace the basket anyway. If you need a good hub cheap, I'll go digging in my part bin and see if I still have it.

Been there, replaced that. Got parts from some parts dealer in CA, that had a 200 mile old 998S takeoff basket.

I ordered the friction from Ferraci, I think, when I did mine. Tough part was getting the Jesus nut off the front of the basket. Better beg, borrow or buy one of those clutch basket / hub tools, or sub it to a shop.

09-06-2009, 10:40 PM
Red Label Moto, agreed. Definitely not well maintained. Only copied and pasted what was written on a portion of the ad. This is my first dry clutch bike and plan on keeping it for a long time to come. It's almost 35k miles now and by the looks of it the parts were probably new only when the bike was.

Holeshot, that hub would be super, if you are willing to part with it(If you still have it of course.) If I don't buy the tool, I could probably make one, I have enough steel laying around and a plasma cutter..hmm. :evilgrin3

Lotus54, heard the bike a little bit when he rode up before I bought it but heard mostly exhaust and a little clangy but still as it is my first dry clutch..wasn't sure what I was sposed to be listening for, just sounded a little more clangy that usual..and now I am seeing why. And SB Motorsports (who rebalanced the wheels and chain tension) also mentioned that they duct tape the wheel weights on for track days as flinging weights into another ride really really hurts when impact occurs.

Only paid $4k for it so I still think I got a pretty good deal for it. Hell, when I bought my truck the engine case was cracked and spewed oil everywhere and I still spent the $3300 in a heartbeat to get that..guess this is all just another learning experience.

As for the clutch discs, I didn't know what brand was a good one. Most I see just say for non-stock clutches or for race use only. Seen Barnett (I think) and http://www.ferracci.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=225 from Ferracci, and a couple others elsewhere. I just couldn't tell for sure what was good or bad. Suggestions?

Red Label Moto
09-07-2009, 12:02 AM
This bike sure sounds like it found the right owner to sort it out. $4k sounds pretty fair.

As far as the "S" model designation goes, you are testing my memory banks but here goes. Gotta stay sharp I always say. When the 916 came out in late '93 - '94, the 748 'lil bro came out as a '95 model everywhere but the US. We got it starting model year 1997 and it was sold here until model year 2002.

The confusion with "S" comes from the fact that, early on, a single seat 748 was a "Strada" and the 2-seater the "Biposoto". So sometimes a pre-2000 748 single seat bike would get referred to as an "S" which was short for "Strada".

For model year 2000, they had an official "S" version which was really the same bike they always had with a bit fancier 5-spoke rims, a grey frame and gold coating on the fork legs. They also had a lesser "non-S" or "base" version which had the old 3-spokers and gold frame. The cheap bastardos even deleted the adjustable steering eccentric, the dzus bodywork fasteners and even the quick release dry-breaks on the fuel tank on the base model. All that for only $13.5k 9 years ago :) The lineup stayed that way for '00, '01 and '02. Then the 749 reared its, ummm, head for '03.

So the ONLY 748 WITHOUT the adj eccentric was the base model from '00 - '02. EVERY other 748 ever made had that feature. Of course, there were SP, SPS and R versions that had all the fancy bits and higher hp engines that have nothing to do with what we speak of here and were never sold for street use in the good U, ess of effing-A. Yes I am a geek.

Nice bike man. My advice is put a new clutch in there (everything) and ride the crapola out of it.

09-07-2009, 12:52 AM
Well then, for the time being, 748 Mono will just be the changed bit in sig line. Can't please everyone..just ask all the people that want to buy my truck. :happy57:

09-07-2009, 07:56 AM
When I did the clutch on the ST2, I got a ProCutting setup from Charlie. The clutch plates were hand fitted to the basket, so it was very quiet and should last longer not banging around.
Decent price at the time- I don't know if he sells direct anymore or only through DesmoTimes.

Of course, looks like you have a basket already- but I was happy with the Barnett plates at the time.


09-07-2009, 09:40 AM
Well then, for the time being, 748 Mono will just be the changed bit in sig line.If the history-buff is correct shouldn't that be 748 Strada?

09-09-2009, 12:31 PM
Ok so it's Strada now..heh

This may just end up being a build thread..if that's ok?

I figured since I have all these trashed clutch discs, why not make something useful out of them.


Little touchy but as the basket is trashed too I wasn't too worried about chewing it up. I plan to smooth the edges a bit and then take it to work and probably shot peen it as well, and then get it coated to prevent corrosion but otherwise it works great. I ended up using the footpeg area as a setting point and then just used a breaker bar and a 1 1/4" socket (fit very snug but perfect grip) and with a little umph the bolt/nut came right off. Then just wiggled out the very wiped hub and continued to pull out the basket bolts and finally the hub.

It's all out now, just waiting on parts to show up. Think I will have to replace the seal in there as well since there is a bit of wet back behind the destruction, needed to do an oil change anyway.

Will do all billet later I think I have decided (Desmotimes.com was very convincing) but until then will just make it run and ride again.

If anyone has a use for one of these tools, I have enough materials to make 6 more, at least out of my clutch pack. Figured I would offer at least.

09-09-2009, 06:56 PM
Hey 58typeduc, just to let you know FBF can be a real pain in the ass to deal with. I'd recommend www.Ca-Cycleworks.com for aftermarket stuff. Quick shipping from SoCal.

Nice bike by-the-way and the Dub looks fun too.

Have fun good deal at 4k.

09-10-2009, 11:13 PM
This may just end up being a build thread..if that's ok?

I figured since I have all these trashed clutch discs, why not make something useful out of them.


:jumping41 Please do. Build threads are cool!

09-10-2009, 11:44 PM
Well, got my basket from fleabay and it's almost worse than the one I took off, not quite serrated like mine but getting there. So, I guess I am just saving up and getting all the billet pieces. (sigh)

Guess it gives me time to clean it some more, detailing is fun. :rolleyes:

09-11-2009, 08:10 AM
Hey Jax...I've got the oem clutch kit from my 1098 and SF - trade you for a clutch tool?

09-11-2009, 10:15 AM
Hey Jax...I've got the oem clutch kit from my 1098 and SF - trade you for a clutch tool?

Wow, that sounds great! I will make one today. Will send a PM when I get it done.

And thank you.

09-16-2009, 03:23 PM
Well, got it all back together and after reading some google searched on why I only have 1/8 inch of clutch and learning how to make a huge mess of the back of my front fairing knocking out the air bubbles (lots of air I guess, ha ha) I now have full clutch again and also found the clear coat on my clutch cover isn't all that engine heat resistant since it's getting a bit of a surface spotting now..oh well.

Anywho, here is a pic of it on, gonna hopefully ride it to work tonight, weather permitting, at least it means I can ride in the daylight for once.


Much thanks to Bong for the clutch setup, totally saved me. :bowdown::bowdown:

Fairing is off because I did try to ride today and found the battery was very dead..charged and on trickler now.

09-17-2009, 04:20 PM
Got her running really well today. Had some issues with clutch slippage and now it's all better. The one down side, and this is a curiousity, and question.
So I have it idling and you can see the pressure plate rotating with a radial bit of play. Not huge but to me it would seem that if it just spun with no radial and just in a circle that that would be good..unlike this..just doesn't seem 'right' to me.

Rich Quarre
09-17-2009, 04:39 PM
Jax, I noticed when I was shopping for a clutch for the 749, that sometimes the clutch manufactures' sales sites listed one model for the 1098/1198/SF only and another clutch model for all others. I have no idea why, or what is different between them. The only reason I mention this was I think you earlier posted something about getting a clutch or parts from Bong's 1098 (?). Just thought I'd through it out there since you said something didn't seem right.

10-11-2009, 05:29 PM
Rich, the only thing I see a difference in between old and new dry clutch bikes is that the earlier ones have 7 drive discs while newer have 8.
I will do more research on it this winter, bike is in the house now for the winter, its 650 miles off the 36k service so I have something to do this season, and in the warmth of the house no less.

Thanking Sieg for the wheels! I have a bit of cleaning to do, as those white wheels get dirty quick.


10-11-2009, 05:39 PM
looking good Jax looking good! the white wheels really work on the yellow bikes

10-11-2009, 06:18 PM
looking good Jax looking good! the white wheels really work on the yellow bikes


10-11-2009, 06:40 PM
Amazingly good. I like it!

Rich Quarre
10-11-2009, 08:39 PM
Yea, Jax, the bike looks really great. Well done.:)

10-11-2009, 08:46 PM
Looking good!

A white accent on the belly pan ala 1098 pattern or similar might have potential?

10-11-2009, 09:29 PM
Nice color combo - if you ever take take her apart the frame in white would top it off!

10-14-2009, 01:58 PM
Thinking about the frame color for later on, not sure yet but was sort of thinking a gunmetal-ish maybe.
Looked at some 1098's on Google to try to figure out the white design idea and it's probable. I might just have to with play MS Paint (I can't for the life of me figure out photoshop to mask over) to see what I might like.

Pictures pictures and a movie (oooooh!)

I installed a clear tail light lens and then put in the led integrated light w/ turn signals, to help streamline and delete the external turn signals. Still working on doing front ones but that is next month.
Also installed a BackOff XP brake light modulator, set to 5 flashes and then constant.
The led set up is off customdynamics.com (in case anyone is interested), I have used these guys before so really like what I have gotten in the past and this topped it off.

Umm, BackOff mounted really nice under the seat, out of the way of everything. I will probably rewire it again tho since I used two different gage wires (I couldn't find my wire stash) but it works just fine either way.

I think that is most everything.

I have a huge bit of cleaning and detailing to do still, but have to buy an actual drop pan since that pizza box will only catch dust and not the 'boulders' mixed up in there.

Anyway, pics and the motion.


Can't figure out how to embed the video so here's the link:


10-14-2009, 02:04 PM
Looks good, I wish my wife would let me bring the bike inside!

11-02-2009, 01:19 PM
So tried to do some more of the 36k service yesterday, even tho it is at 35,3xx miles. Went to replace the rear brake pads to find one of the caliper bolts stripped. Looked at the rear rotor as well as it is shows a bit of wear so went to take that off and, what a surprise, one of the allen bolts holding the rotor on was also stripped out, will have to drill it out and use an ez-out to get it out. I am thinking this won't be the end of the 'issues' with this bike, since we all already saw the clutch.

Next step is to take off the tank and take the air box out so I can get to the throttle bodies and most likely do a rebuild on them. Trying to get the belt covers off but I think I have to go up after the airbox is out, since the middle cover won't drop down.

Looking to probably replace the battery as well since the top is, well, let's just say not so pretty.

Figured I would at least pass on the progression

11-27-2009, 03:05 PM
Hmm, it's getting to be more fun. Went to do the fuel filter today, at the start of the complete 6k service out of the Haynes manual and upon further inspection looking at the filter on the bike and the filter in the manual..things didn't add up. The filter wasn't fitting right, loose in its cradle, then I see the part markings on the side of the filter: NAPA

Ahh now it all makes sense..

At least I know one thing that will be for sure; once I am done putting it back together, all the right parts will actually be installed.


11-27-2009, 04:29 PM
Hmm, it's getting to be more fun. Went to do the fuel filter today, at the start of the complete 6k service out of the Haynes manual and upon further inspection looking at the filter on the bike and the filter in the manual..things didn't add up. The filter wasn't fitting right, loose in its cradle, then I see the part markings on the side of the filter: NAPA

Ahh now it all makes sense..

At least I know one thing that will be for sure; once I am done putting it back together, all the right parts will actually be installed.


NAPA ! :scared10:

Glad your giving the bike some love. Keep the posts and pics coming.

Rich Quarre
11-27-2009, 05:20 PM
From what I've read, that actually sounds like a semi-common replacement filter/mod. I believe it's even discussed in LT Synder's book. If you don't have a copy, get one before you go any further with the 6K check. I think DucSea should have a copy in stock.

11-29-2009, 10:51 AM
Didn't see the book but ended up getting the OE filter anyway, just for my own sake I suppose.

Thanks to 'Nobody' aka Rich up in Marysville for parts yesterday, definitely gonna save up to get some more from ya.

As I was cleaning up the front sprocket and looking at the retaining plate, saw this, the right being the new one I bought:


Also there was a bolt and plate 'machined' to cover the end of the sprocket shaft. Made a good reason why there was well over a 1/4" of end play in the sprocket. I bet it works better once it's right.

12-08-2009, 02:08 PM
Nothing big..

Went to take off the rear axle nut, sprocket side, to take off the, well, sprocket and after buying the rear axle nut tool today, I went to take it off...to find that the nut was not even on finger tight.

I am really starting to wonder about the previous owners..

Should have the sprockets swapped today so I can put the chain on and then get that much farther into the servicing. The rear should be about done at that point at least and I can start doing the hard stuff.

Oh, and after the sprocket swap, the cleaning is done, yay!! :jumping41

12-08-2009, 02:53 PM
Paint the VW ducati yellow... that would be sick to carry the Duc in.

12-21-2009, 12:54 PM
Thinking I will leave the truck the color it is right now, yellow carrying yellow...mmmm little too much yellow I am thinking. Besides, with the blue with yellow in the back, you get the beacon above, so to speak.

Done a bit more work to the 748.

Chain is now back on with thanks to 'Nobody' for the chain and sprockets and 'Mostrorosso' for the chain tools.

Did most of the valve job. They are all right at the correct adjusting specs via the manual except one. They all sit right around .17mm except one that is really hard to fit a .08mm into, so am going to re-shim that one to get it closer to the others..this is the opening valves. The closing ones felt fine so will leave them where they are.
The belts were fun, as well as trying to check the cylinder head torques.

The one I am sort of worried about right now is the alternator nut torque. I noticed the allen in the middle and I know it spins freely..I did put it back to where I started tinkering with it but I have not taken the crankcase plate off yet to check the torque, and still have to get a strap wrench to hold to check the torque, that will be this week.

Didn't fully polish the exhaust, just the splitter and the cans, as they are all titanium. the lower forward piece and the 'S' piece next to the rear shock were left bare so I took them to work and we glass beaded them. Not polished but I can play with that later if I choose to.

Got a rear Hugger from 'Nobody' but am finding, with research, that this year 748 did not come with a rear hugger and can see that since the rear shock lower bolt is not long enough to bolt the other end of the hugger on..I am sure I can get one tho.

So, looks like I have one opening valve shim to do and then I can put the throttle body and remaining valve cover back on. Clean the CF airbox of all the oils and other nasties out of it. Have to drain the fuel out of the tank so I can do the fuel filter and swap the cf look tank protector with the clear one (should look great!)

Also replaced the front fairing windscreen screws with gold anodized ones, looks more one piece now, I like it.
Aligned the exhaust today so it is actually more or less as close to center as I could get it in relation to the rear cowl. Rear cowl is also on so I have a seat, woohoo!

Only thing I won't be able to do is the front fork seals and oil replacement, sort of scared to get hit in the head by a rocket so will leave that to the professionals.

Also have to do the steering head bearings. I am sort of worried about them from when I would hit the front brakes and I could feel a hard forward 'KNOCK' when it would go to slow down, I am seriously thinking bearings might be the case.

Well, more to come. Gotta pull the shim tonight and then tomorrow will go from there.

Thanks to all that have helped so far and to come.

John - Wenatchee
12-21-2009, 01:43 PM
This is one of my favorite threads. Great work!!!

12-25-2009, 12:57 AM
I'm glad I can make someones day for a 'read.'

More today.

Went and got yet more parts up at DucSea. It's nice to know that they now know me by name and year and model, no more asking..ha ha..

Got the shim I needed for the opening valve. Got it all in, checked adjustment and felt fantastic. Buttoned up the final valve cover, put the throttle body stand back on as well as the throttle body itself.

Put the CF airbox on while a friend was talking to me on the phone when I reminded myself, for the umpteenth time, that I forgot to put the throttle cable back on. Off with the airbox, again, and on with the cable with a hopefully good adjustment.

Tank is now back on as well, with even the vent lines that, amazingly enough, were not on when I took the tank off. Seems another well maintained part; kepts the hoses clean and dry via not putting them on where they belonged..sigh

So that is all back together, as well as a nice airing out of the house when I opened the fuel tank cap and had a nice POP of all the vacuumed-in air come rushing out. Whoops!

Umm, have to remember where I put my new battery tender wiring so I can put it on the bike. I think I found some other old stuff still on (same plugs) but as I have no idea their condition or where they are routed, I will just use the new good ones.
Bought a new battery as well, since my old one is rather in the corroded brown color. The old is good for checking that the lights and stuff still work, have to put the new one in to check the h.i.d. tho as it just blinks at present.

So, last things to do, for now, are to get a strap wrench to check the alternator bolt torque, re-seal and install the left crankcase cover (which can be taken off with all the coolant lines still in place [new coolant already in, no need to take it out, heh] ), and finish the wiring nightmare.

Oh yes, that. I took out the, umm, power box? The heatsink that mounts below the battery, or does on mine anyway. Red and black wires look fine, tho red had some hard spots. Got to the yellow ones (alternator) and, well, let's just say they could have been mistaken for residential power wires. Hard as a..well, really rigid and fried. I've cut out the bad area, spliced in some new for the start and then realized I have no spools of yellow wire. I am contemplating putting in some green since I know what it is, but I know how much of a 'somewhat perfectionist' I am and will ridicule myself until I fix that. So, I figure I will just wait til the stores open again and go buy what I need when I come to that hurdle..after the holiday hell to come.

Rerouted most of the wiring on the bike. Cut some and shortened to length so it wasn't spaghetti everywhere, just to clean it up some. Others just got routed in between frame rails and components, and yet others are now mostly hidden. I will surely do th is again after the bike is up and running and I know everything works but that will be when I really start to nitpick..I'd say give me about a month. :happy57:

Other than that, just have to finish the electrical and the last bit of maintenance (alternator rotor nut) and then just have to do steering head bearings and take the forks in to get them maintained and all will pretty much be done, except the fluid fills, electrical checks, compression check, etc etc.

It's starting to look like a motorcycle again, I am almost impressed with myself.

Oh and I have to get people back their tools. :bowdown: to many of them

12-25-2009, 08:39 AM
Very impressive Jax - post pics of your progress!

12-25-2009, 09:00 AM
Very impressive Jax - post pics of your progress!
:+1: Looking forward to them.

12-26-2009, 03:37 PM
Not sure how much the pics will explain, now that most of it is back together and I sort of got into what I was doing that I forgot to take some..but here goes:

A little older since I don't recall that I ever posted these.
The before and after pictures of the exhaust. All done by hand and some Mothers metal polish. These just show the before and afters. The splitter took me nearly 10 hours by itself to get it that shiny. The back side is not perfect due to blemishes and what not but I can handle that.
The lower and the 'S' are still just glass bead blasted so very much in the silver category but I figure a little engine heat will give them back their color, at which point I will do the polishing, or at least shine them up some..they were bare titanium, no shine at all.


This one shows a bit of the shine back into the exhaust, and current state of the bike. Also sanded out and cleaned the exhaust tips so they are no longer black at the tip, polished like they should be. May delve deeper into the ends to shine up some more but will see how I feel.


These just show the tank protector..and some dings from the previous owner. Will probably invest in a replacement tank in the future but this one will work for the time being. I can see why many people don't run a clear protector tho, the air bubbles are easily seen. Or in my case, it won't fully adhere at the edges so just keep pushing those areas down. I am sure after a few rides it should be better. I am waiting until the new emblem is put into them so I can update even more so.


Not an extremely pretty picture but shows more of where the current state is in. The yellow rectangle, if the question had arose, is the double sided sticky tape paper on the back of the h.i.d. ballast. Makes for a great pad against the windscreen.
The left crankcase is presently slipped off the side, awaiting for me to get a strap wrench for torque check on the alternator bolt.


This shows how the wiring is presently set up. Will run all wiring behind the battery box that is non-essential to the battery. Most all has already been run and fit away from all moving parts, ie throttle body/cable. I still have to get the yellow wiring for the alternator to the box and shrink wrap it but otherwise all wiring I think may be done.


Only wiring I have had trouble with so far is the ground strap to the case next to the rear brake fluid reservoir. One of the previous owners stripped out the hex head on the bolt so no taking it off, but I did reroute it from being spaghetti next to the rear shock to in front of the reservoir and up the frame. It hides it pretty well but is not a permanent fix. I will figure something out for it in the future, most likely just get an easy-out and replace the bolt.

I am thinking that the side fairings will be getting the same treatment as the front fairing with using the gold anodized screws to hold them together. It really cleaned up the front fairing.


Still contemplating the painting of the side fairing lower area a sweeping white but still haven't come up with a design I like yet.

Oh and last of all, the alternator wiring. I only held onto one wire with my swaps to show how rigid this was. Not good.


Think that is it for now. Tomorrow, a whole new ball of wax! :happy44:

12-28-2009, 01:21 AM
So I did the worst thing imaginable tonight. My extreme attention to detail failed me when I didn't pay attention to the water pump control arm and went to put the left crankcase cover back on.

Yup..cracked the case.

Lots of expletives later and noticed it's more of a hairline crack so a little Lexel for a temp fix and now asking if anyone that reads this if they have a spare. I haven't won the lottery yet so won't be buying a new one.

Boy do I feel like a lunkhead for that one.


Well either way, the bike is more or less back together. No fluids at all in it at present now, other than the fork oil. Got the battery all in, except I managed to lose my extension for the battery tender so I have to probably buy another one.

All wiring otherwise is done. All parts on the left side are put on, except that I have to pull the lower shock bolt out to get a longer one from Tacoma Screw, so I can properly mount the rear hugger.

Happy to also say the low fuel light works, not burned out like I imagined it would have been.

So, have to add fluids, pop the front wheel on, roll the bike back to the front door with the exhaust hanging outside so I can do the compression checks and oil pressure checks..once I add the fluids of course. I am sure the landlord is gonna like that one..or I might just wait until I get the forks done and then I have a reason to get all dressed up and make some noise, ha ha.

Off to bed now, more to come.

12-28-2009, 07:12 AM
Nice work!

Sorry to hear about the case, get a dremel with the dentist sized bits out and v or u cut the backside of the crack and JB Weld or Lexel (assuming it's similar) just make sure you clean thoroughly with solvent and air. I had good success with a cranked main crankcase on a motor that ran Elf HTX 5 wt oil.

Nice heated shop you have too! Being in the carpet business I really appreciate your style. :happy57:

If your tank dents are in the knee area, run some grip pads to hide them?

PS - Nice wheels!

Rich Quarre
12-28-2009, 08:12 AM
Looking good, Jax! The exhaust cleaned up really nicely.:thumbup:

01-08-2010, 09:07 PM
It's funny how life throws irony in ones face sometimes..not always in a good way either.

So, I got the front brakes bled, clutch bled, just have to do the rear brake and sync the throttle bodies and get the bolt for the rear lower shock mount to put the hugger on.

As I was finishing up I remembered that I needed to do the compression test as I was following the steps in the book. And the answer is?


Book states 113psi bare minimum, or 8bar. Preferable tolerances 125-145psi, or 9-11bar.

Vertical cylinder is about 115psi, hair above 8bar.
Horizontal cylinder is 100psi, or 7bar.

Crap :scared10: :(

So...anyone know a good (inexpensive) mechanic that can fix this? I can't go and pull an engine in the house and no place to do something like that.

To think, get it this far..and dead end into a wall...

01-09-2010, 08:27 AM
Did you check the compression with the throttle wide open?
The is how you are supposed to do it, it will read much lower closed.


01-09-2010, 03:04 PM
OOOHHH, I will have to try that. The book just says to spin it up.

Off to test. Thank you.

01-09-2010, 03:32 PM
OOOHHH, I will have to try that. The book just says to spin it up.

Off to test. Thank you.

It makes a substantial difference.

I'm guessing it will be fine.

Rich Quarre
01-09-2010, 03:34 PM
The other thing I'd check before tearing into things, is do a compression leak down test. If both (common and leak down) tests confirm a lack of compression, then you might try some engine carbon remover like Sea Foam. I've never tried any of them, but at that point, you don't have much to lose.

01-09-2010, 03:44 PM
I agree with Rich.
A leak-down test will be the best method.
Really should be under 10%, a super valve job will still have a few %.

If you get excessive leak-down, then listen to the exhaust; if you hear it there it is an exhaust valve problem.
Listent to intake, if you hear it there and intake valve problem.
Listen to the crankcase vent- if you hear there it is the rings/piston.

Oh yeah, those are done at TDC with both valves closed.


01-09-2010, 09:16 PM
Not sure how to do the leak down test, will see if the book says how to, otherwise a bit of a google search I suppose.

Re-checked the compression and it did a substantial jump, both are 8 1/2 to 9 bar-ish.

On a side note, replaced the rear brake switch. Found the tip broke, making the brakes not turn off. All better now.

Pulled the rear lower shock bolt to either get a longer one so I can put the hugger on or just weld an extension to the size I need to hold the hugger on.

Rear brake has been bled, nice and tight.

Just deciding if I want to keep the tinted windshield I put on or go back to the clear one for the time being, the tinted one is a bit 'taller' so to speak.

01-09-2010, 09:32 PM
I found a couple of articles showing how to do them.
First is for a car- but same deal.



Here is a MotoPro one.
You can make one also.
I imagine some of our friendly dealers here that support the site sell them also.



01-11-2010, 12:12 AM
Going to apologize a bit to people that have read this and me going a bit extreme on a few of the occasions so far. I realize it puts me a bit more in the immature nature and that is not what I ever aim for, even tho it tends to slip on occasion..as we have very well seen.
So, yes, I am a bit in the wrong but did not mean to do as such.


On another more positive note; the 748 is pretty much done. Trying to get my front lights to work as I would like them to, a bit more on the stealth side but have to get some resistors and probably a no load flasher relay..might be a bit more than I need but I can play with them when I get them.
Have to take the air filter back off so I can adjust the butterflies in the throttle bodies and then just wait for dry days so I can do the syncing and test ride. Oh, and I have to get the tires swapped between wheels, the Pilot Powers are flat spotted in the middles and my Pirelli's have only a small amount of miles on them, keep the Powers for the track days I 'hope' to attend if I can afford them.

01-16-2010, 01:33 AM
So...now that I finally finished wracking my brain tonight about this issue I was having, here goes:

Took off the front turn signals and mounted my flexible l.e.d. arrays in a nice convenient spot. With the headlight on (hid) they are a bit dim but I think it's because there is no engine running. I flipped the hid off and they stay nice and bright. Now I don't have the stockies on there, but I still have to fill in the holes. The lights don't blink fast because I also installed a no load flasher relay. Lots of help there.

Also have to finish putting the rear hugger on..but that is for another post.

Here is the video of it tonight. The headlight is taped over because I didn't realize I could keep it turned off..but it also stayed on constant too, instead of playing the blinky game as usual..I am rather in awe with that too. I guess I must have done something right! :eek:

My own little bit of 'custom' I suppose.


01-16-2010, 07:39 AM
Nice work Jax, your sure are making that 748 yours!! :thumbup:

Rich Quarre
01-16-2010, 08:42 AM
That looks great...nice location for the LEDs.

01-16-2010, 09:54 AM
I have a soft spot for LEDs, Looks great!

01-20-2010, 01:47 PM
So, no oil cooler on the 748 so did a little cleaning up today. I think it looks pretty good.


01-22-2010, 12:51 PM
Found my vacuum canister is fully plugged up. Disconnected the hose from the bottom of the tank and it fired right up today. Went on a short (5 or so miles) stint to get it up and feeling again. Will have to wear the thicker gloves tonight and loose some of the handlegrip feel if I want to keep my fingers.

Did some more work on the pressure plate cover as well. Took out the entire middle section I had cut priot, just to show off more of that lovely pressure plate.

Seems the blinkers are bright during initial start up of the hid at maximum amp draw but once the headlight is fully warmed up the blinkers are quite a bit on the faded side. Will have to investigate this further. Thinking if I just ground them out or straight to the battery, this should solve it. Will play with that this weekend.

Rear hugger is on, a little lopsided but as close to centered as I can get it without making 2 more brackets to hold it; already have one mocked up to hold one side so at least for now it works and doesn't rub. It keeps the road debris off the back of the engine area so that makes me happy.

So I suppose the test now is tonight. To and from work, with thicker gloves on. Held's are nice but if they are the summer version, fingers get cold really fast.

I guess that makes my build thread nearly complete, huh? Other than future additions.

Clutch cover (and some well deserved DucSea homage):


Completed shot, still not sure about the new windscreen tho:


01-22-2010, 01:34 PM
Great job!

01-22-2010, 02:07 PM
Looks great! Glad to see another 748 in the mix.

05-04-2010, 10:30 AM
Wow Jax, nice job! After talking with you on Sunday and reading this thread, I'm impressed! I really admire people who not only do their own work, but make sure it's done well. Hope to ride with you soon!

09-04-2012, 09:23 AM
Just resurrecting this thread to say a huge "thanks" to Jax! Over the holiday weekend we were able to trial fit two bikes to his trailer and swap out the clutch in the 97 748 I picked up a few weeks ago. Thanks, in huge part, to all the pieces and parts he accumulated from this build. I bet it would be amazing to know how many people's tools, parts or expertise have made it onto other peoples bikes once or even twice removed! Six degrees of motorcycle separation... In any event, he drinks weird beer, but he' s definitely a good dude.

Thanks Jax!

09-04-2012, 03:50 PM
Glad I can help, now just to talk the wifey into those wheels. heh :cool2:

09-04-2012, 09:33 PM
Glad I can help, now just to talk the wifey into those wheels. heh :cool2:

I'm workin' on it, but apparently my priorities are all out of whack and the kids need to eat or something... :lostmarbles:

09-05-2012, 09:09 AM
I'm workin' on it, but apparently my priorities are all out of whack and the kids need to eat or something... :lostmarbles:

Feeding kids is always a good idea. :thumbup:

09-05-2012, 11:31 AM
Feeding kids is always a good idea. :thumbup:


I don't know. I keep seeing reports on the news about how they're all over weight these days, playing video games constantly, and need to take gym class. :happy57:

Maybe the kids could polish both sets of wheels for some exercise. :rules:

Speaking of new bikes, did you get another MV? (And if so, where is the seperate thread with pics? :rules2: )

09-05-2012, 08:37 PM

I don't know. I keep seeing reports on the news about how they're all over weight these days, playing video games constantly, and need to take gym class. :happy57:

Maybe the kids could polish both sets of wheels for some exercise. :rules:

Speaking of new bikes, did you get another MV? (And if so, where is the seperate thread with pics? :rules2: )

My 3 year old always tries to help Dad clean the bikes and cars - except she sometimes confuses the screwdrivers with the wash mitts... :scared10:

09-06-2012, 10:47 PM
My 3 year old always tries to help Dad clean the bikes and cars - except she sometimes confuses the screwdrivers with the wash mitts... :scared10:

Uh-Oh!!! :scared10:

(Thanks for the warning, I'll make sure I keep an eye out for that in a couple of years.)